Eating Abroad Spain

Seville – A Tapas Food Tour

June 29, 2017

I was never in doubt that I would instantly warm to Seville, but the fact that it was actually warm in December and January made me fall for it even more. Those heading there in the height of summer best be prepared for some serious siesta time as the temperatures can soar into the 40s, so I would suggest that if you can, save your Seville sojourn  for autumn or winter. At this time of year, the famous Seville orange trees are still laden with fruit, and while the mornings and evenings are a little chilly, the afternoons are often bathed in sunshine – perfect for sightseeing and tapas bar hopping!

However, weather warnings aside, I would whole-heartedly encourage everyone to visit Seville, whenever they can because the city is quite a looker and brimming with a sparkling personality. The city’s star attractions do not disappoint; the Cathedral is rather breath-taking, Plaza Espana is as grand as they come, the Real Alcazar is probably one of the most stunning sites I’ve visited to date, and even the divisive Metropol Parasol has a certain charm and appeal.

In between being sufficiently impressed by the beauty of the old town, we ate. We joined a food tour, we dined in Michelin-star style, and then we ate everything in between. There are tapas bars, both traditional and modern tucked down every street, and unless you happen to be in Seville on New Year’s Eve (I’d recommend you actually book a restaurant if you are) there is absolutely no risk of starving in this town. If anything, if you’ve done the tapas hopping thing right, you more likely to be overeating at every meal!

Restaurante Enrique Becerra

For your first taste of the city, I’d suggest you visit this stalwart eponymous restaurant from one of the city’s finest and most famous chefs. The restaurant looks very traditional with their waistcoated waiters and crisp white tablecloths, and the menu is certainly full of the regional classics, but the execution has a slight modern twist. If you’re ravenous, sit yourself down for a proper feast from the main menu, but otherwise order off the tapas menu and savour as many of their small plates as you can. Their tostas topped with either morcilla (Spanish black pudding) or gulas and aioli (baby eels) were extremely tasty bites, but our favourites were definitely the salmorejo, a cold tomato soup, and the pork cheek with raspberry and chocolate sauce!

Mercado de Feria

Seville’s oldest market is not particularly big but it’s still worth a visit during the day to immerse yourself in the local pace of life. You can wander with the residents as they do their shopping, then reward yourself with a bite to eat and some quality people-watching. Inside the food hall there are a small number of vendors dishing up anything from paella to sushi. They’ve got a nifty little system where you can get a drink and a tapa for only €3.50; just buy your drink and take your ticket to any of the vendors. It’s handy for a cheap snack, but actually, the food from the small bars and restaurants outside of the food hall seems to be much better!

La Azotea

This trendy tapas restaurant is a firm favourite in Seville, so much so that there are now four of them in the city. But don’t let the mini-chain status put you off; their food is still very much fresh, flavoursome and well-executed. The contemporary tapas menu has obvious Mediterranean influences, but the pride in the local produce is also clear – start with something light like the salmon tartare before moving onto any of the hearty seafood plates or Iberian pork dishes. You can order most of the dishes in either tapa, half or full plate sizes which makes this a perfect spot for small or large parties – assuming you can nab a table, that is. The best way to manage this is to pop your name on the waiting list then head to a nearby bar for an aperitivo before returning to check on the queue!

Sal Gorda

We passed this tiny tapas bar many times during our stay in Seville and each time it was bustling inside and out, which only made us want to try it more! I think it’s generally a good sign when a restaurant is popular with both locals and tourists. Being another one of the city’s modern offerings, Sal Gorda’s approach to tapas is innovative with a fusion twist, and they also specialise in craft beers. We gave their beef tartare a solid seal of approval, but loved the vibrancy of all the dishes and wished we had room for more that night.

So Make A Move…

  • Seville’s old town is very compact and easily walkable so I would recommend booking accommodation in the heart of it and taking advantage of the fact that it’s completely pedestrianised.
  • Real Alcazar – set aside a whole morning or afternoon to make your way round this immense site, and make sure you book your tickets ahead of time so you can skip what is usually an exceptionally long queue.
  • Seville Cathedral – another must-visit attraction, the queues are also very long. A top tip to avoid the queues is to first pay a visit to the Church of El Salvador, the second largest in Seville which is also quite beautiful, and buy a combined ticket which will give you entry to the Cathedral.
  • Metropol Parasol – otherwise known as ‘Las Setas’ due to its resemblance to mushrooms, this is the world’s largest wooden structure. The locals might be divided on its appeal, but I think it’s absolutely charming and some of the best views of the city can be gained from the top – the entry fee is only €3 and that also gets you a free drink!
  • Flamenco – you get a taste of flamenco all over the streets of Seville, but to truly appreciate the passion and skill of the performers you need to book a show. We went to Casa del Flamenco where they’re famous for their intimate venue (get there early) and their natural acoustics!
  • Devour Seville Food Tour – we thoroughly enjoyed our morning with Devour Seville on their Tastes, Tapas and Traditions Tour, find out more about our experience here.
  • Restaurante Abantal – tapas are fantastic but if you want a fine dining experience in the city, you should book a table at Seville’s only Michelin star restaurant, find out more about our experience here.
  • Restaurante Enrique Becerra, Calle Gamazo, 2, 41001 Sevilla
  • Mercado de Feria, Plaza Calderón de la Barca, s/n, 41002 Sevilla
  • La Azotea, Calle Zaragoza, 5c, 41001 Sevilla
  • Sal Gorda, Calle Alcaicería de la Loza, 17, 41004 Sevilla

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  • So glad th girls allowed this post! I’m salivating over here! I’ve been dying to visit Seville for at least the last 5 years and haven’t made it because I always wanted to go in the summer, but I think you’ve changed my mind to go in the fall or winter! I don’t do well in the heat anyways! Pinned all this delicious food for later! #FarawayFiles

    • hilary

      Why wouldn’t this post be allowed?

      • It’s my first time joining #FarawayFiles so I wasn’t quite sure what the rules were! So pleased I did though – can’t wait to read through everyone’s posts properly and get some more travel inspiration!

        • Clare Thomson

          This is just the kind of post we love on #FarawayFiles, Connie! Great foodie tips and treats. I loved Seville and absolutely agree that it’s the perfect place to visit in the winter. I’ll be saving your restaurant guide for our next visit.

        • hilary

          Ah! Well… Welcome! It’s a great community of fabulous people!

    • I loved it so much, I’d brave the heat for it but it just means more siesta time haha! I hope you get an opportunity to visit soon – it’s stunning!

  • Seville is somewhere I’d love to visit – an autumn weekend is very tempting – and my mouth if watering at the idea of the tapas too. #farawayfiles

    • It’s a beautiful city – less hectic than Barcelona or Madrid with its old town charms I think!

  • The moment I read the title of your post I had my mouth water. All the food looks incredible. I’ve only been to Barcelona, but still remember the delicious taste of tapas from the tiny local restaurants. Would love to go back to Spain and explore better. xoxo, nano |

    • Thank you so much – I adore Barcelona too… in fact, I’ve loved every part of Spain that I’ve visited! You should definitely plan a journey through the country next time you’re in this part of the world!

  • What a fantastic post! I love, love Spain. However, I have not been to the southern part of the country. I like the idea of visiting during fall or winter. I am sure the weather is benign during those seasons. The food in Sevilla looks delicious. Food is one of the reasons I cannot stop thinking about Spain. #wanderfulwednesday

    • Thanks Ruth – happy to meet another Spain-lover! We also visited Cordoba and Granada as part of this trip and fell in love with Andalucia – I hope you get the opportunity to visit soon!

  • hilary

    I loved our visit to Sevilla, and wished we could have stayed longer… hoping to get back there someday! #farawayfiles

    • It’s such a wonderful city, isn’t it?! I’d love to go back and stay longer too… fingers crossed for a future visit!

  • Untold Morsels

    Connie this looks incredible and exactly the type of experience I seek out on our travels. So much yummy seafood and a fascinating city to explore. I am so glad you joined us on #FarawayFiles this week! I’ve pinned and shared your post!

    • Thanks Katy – really pleased I joined #FarawayFiles this week and will definitely be joining again with future food/travel posts! I’m getting so many trip ideas from everyone’s posts, it’s fantastic!

  • wherejogoes

    Thank goodness I am actually going out for tapas tonight (sadly not in Seville!) as I am now ravenous! The food all looks utterly divine, those prawns alone are worth the journey. Pinned for a future trip! #FarawayFiles

    • Thanks Jo – I love going out for tapas, but it’s never quite the same as being in the heart of Spain, is it?! It’s a stunning city, I hope you get to visit one day!

  • Kathleen (Kat)

    Reading your post and looking at the food pictures are making me hungry now and just as well, it’s almost lunchtime here 🙂 Thanks for the tips especially towards the end of your post about what to do in Seville. Cheers! #FarawayFiles

    • Thanks Kat – so pleased you found it hunger-inducing and useful! I hope you get an opportunity to visit the city soon, it’s absolutely delicious and beautiful!

  • I’ve yet to visit Seville but I’m putting it in my itinerary for next year!

    • You guys would love it – fab weather, great chilled out vibes and excellent food and drink!

  • It’s soooo pretty… but I did click hoping to see you artfully posing with oranges… not gonna lie 😉

    • Also, your blog is looking super good these days! With your Pinterest and your lists and stuff, someone’s gone profesh! x

      • THANK YOU! I’m kinda a big dill these days, don’t you know haha!

    • I would have loved to but they were too bloody high up the trees… and I’m not much of a climber…

  • I’m going in 2 weeks – can’t wait!! Definitely going to make time for flamenco and the Metropol Parasol, and I’ll bear in mind your tip about eating outside the Mercado de Feria 🙂 Would love to know what’s good to do in Cordoba, too – though we’ll probably only be there for the afternoon. xx

    Tamsin | A Certain Adventure

    • I cannot wait to stalk your trip and live vicariously through you! The flamenco shows are only about an hour or so, perfect pre-dinner activity – we found the passion of the performers really moving! We only spent a day in Cordoba but thought it was worth visiting for the Mesquita – it’s a beautiful building!

  • Good Tapas tour. I was literally looking at going to Seville soon. I went once but it was only a day.

    • You definitely need more than a day – hope you get back there soon x

  • Mmm wow, so many delicious eats! We didn’t try any of the same places but thoroughly enjoyed the food… I’d like to go back to try these spots though 🙂

    • Ooh if (hopefully when) I go again, I’ll be asking you for tips too – I love trying new places! There was so much good food in Seville and dining out felt more relaxed than Barcelona or Madrid.

  • Laura Torninoja

    I’ve actually never really considered going to Seville (not sure why to be honest!) but you’ve definitely just placed it firmly on my list! The city looks beeeeaaauuutiful and all the food super yummy – count me in! x

    Laura // Middle of Adventure

    • I hope you do get a chance to visit Laura – it’s a beautiful little city, so much to see and do, and in between all that, there’s loads of delicious food to eat too!

  • I loved Seville when I was there in the spring a couple years ago! My favorite thing we visited was the tiled Plaza de España. We had a mix of good and mediocre tapas when we were there, wish I had had your list! At least we found a great place to have breakfast with fresh squeezed juice and delicious Spanish ham sandwiches 🙂 #FarawayFiles

    • I adored Plaza de Espana too – the colours and tiles just blew me away! Oh I completely forgot about the jamon sandwiches for breakfast – I particularly loved how they put that fresh tomato on it!

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